Ko Lanta is much more laid back

As discussed on the previous night Pi Pi is not the location we wanted to stay for long. Well, I suppose it depends on what you are looking for. If you find places like San Antonio in Ibiza or Temple Bar in Dublin on a Saturday night to be your thing, then it is your type of place. So, it was agreed we move on straight away. After heading off for some breakfast we all met and headed to the ferry. As we waited we were touted into staying at a guest house in our next location of Ko Lanta. For 600 baht a night. Not quite what I had being hoping to pay, although at least it was all organised, including transport, for when we arrived. We climbed aboard the ferry and spent the next three enjoyable hours racing through the waters of the Andamen seas.

A far cry from Pi Pi the port at Ko Lanta looked more like a small fishing boat mooring than a ferry port. Thankfully and fortunately our driver was standing, holding a sign for our resort, Natures Beach. He seemed to be well known by the other drivers as they smiled and gestured him as he led us to the awaiting taxi bus. Not sure whether this was a good sign or a bad sign we followed in anticipation of some big surprise. The journey took no more than fifteen minutes. We were shown a brick bungalow and two bamboo beach huts. Not quite on the beach. More adjacent and in the middle of a field. We all checked in and headed down to checkout the beach. The restaurant of our resort, had a beautiful aspect overlooking the beach. Myself, Jojo and Shane ordered some drinks from the bar. As you head further south in Thailand you will begin to notice a rise in the number of Muslims. This was very evident here with all the girls working here wearing shawls over their heads. Ko Lanta is much more laid back less touristy than we had being before. The section of beach we were at only had a small collection of 5 to ten resorts clumped together. Everyone jumped in to try out the water. Afterwards I sat down with my laptop. Jojo headed off with Nathan and played some volleyball with the locals. An hour or so later we all headed off to clean up and get ready for dinner.

The small collection of places to eat we checked out where similar in price and menu selection. We ended up suggestion a family run business to eat to the group. So with that we all met headed to dinner. The restaurant was airy and tastefully decorated with numerous handmade shell chandeliers, bamboo furniture and plants. The menu told the story of how the surrounding building and all its contents had being totally together and made by the family. The place had a really pleasant feel and the food was second to none. I even finished off my meal and was pleasantly surprised, by trying a pot of deliciious filter coffee. The gang left with smiles on their face and headed back to Peter and Shanes brick bungalow with a/c. We all lay down and watched Yes Man on Peter's PC. It fantastic bringing the computers with you when you just want to jhave a quite night and relax with a movie. Highly recommend it.  

Connected to the essence of just being

The next day was separated into food, fun and relaxation. We had a delicious breakfast. Headed off to the nearby Rali beach afterwards. Bought a new pair of flip-flops after breaking my own pair on route. Had a swim in the glorious aqua jade water. Both of us got minor jellyfish stings. With Jojo's wonderful advice, I stopped myself from itching it and we headed back to our beach. We found an oasis of relaxation hidden off our main track. We grabbed our books and my laptop. Notified Peter of or plans and headed back to spend a couple hours doing nothing. It was bliss beyond bliss. Swinging in our hammocks, we all nodded off to sleep at some intermittent point. As a lay there I knew that this was one of the main things I had being looking for, during my whole journey. A point in time where I was totally at one with myself and fully connected to the essence of just being. After darkness enveloped us we headed back to change for dinner. We tried somewhere different and were sadly disappointed. We decided an early night was in order with us leaving the next day. After exchanging some movies we headed off to bed.

We all headed to breakfast together. The average price seems to be around 120 baht. This entails a drink, porridge, toast and fresh fruit or something of the sort. Not bad for lest than €3. We headed back, collected our bags and checked out. We grabbed a long boat to Ao Nang in anticipation of catching a boat directly to Pi Pi. It wasn't to be the case. After being escorted to the nearby ferry port by a fairly certain taxi driver. Confirming with 3 separate people that the only ferries where in the morning, much to the dismay of the awaiting taxi dude. Being dropped back to the boys on the promenade. Arguing with the taxi dude who was now trying to charge double the fare he originally agreed. We jumped into one of the local open taxis to the town of Krabi. Running down the Krabi pier to the awaiting ferry. Over two hours later we disembark with a packed harbour of touts offering accommodation. We sit and have some iced coffees while we work out where Shane and his friends are booked in. Myself and Jojo agree to stay in the Tropical Garden resort next door to Shanes. After paying, we are escorted, with our bags taken in a cart, through the winding narrow laneways and streets of the allustrious and over touristy Pi Pi. We check in and find a very pleasant resort with wooden bungalows and a pool side bar. We head into the town to check it out. Meet with Shane. We then all head to the pool for a swim. Apart from Peter who takes his daily afternoon nap. I catch up on Shanes antics and then myself and Jojo relax for the next hour sipping beers in the delicious pool. We wash and change clothes. We all meet at the pool side bar. We are introduced to three new people, Triggy, Lou and Nathan. Good friends of Shane. We all head to dinner. Afterwards we go in search of a nice bar. We find a small party happening at one bar with fire poi. We spend a short time there before stopping in one bar on our way home. One drink for the road. An early night for all. Myself and Jojo have a delightful chat before falling to sleep.

a little bit of paradise

Up and checked out by 9am. We used the scooter to find the nearby local bus station. Our hostel was charging 500 baht to Krabi, while the Lonely Planet mentioned it was closer to 100. The bus terminal is easy to find and near the centre of the city. We booked two tickets for 110 baht each to leave at 11.30am. I used the scooter to bring our bags over in two runs. A lot easier than carrying them over in the 30 degrees temperature. The whole back and forward took half and hour. We grabbed some food at one of the local restaurants in the time we had to spare.

The minibus left on time and had a/c. One of the most bizarre things you might notice if you visit Thailand is the quantity of new vehicles on the road. Its quite hard to believe how many there are. 90% of all vehicles are no more than 3 years old. Its quite strange to see this every where you turn. It doesn't fit in with the roads, homes and general state of the place. We got to meet some German and American backpackers who were also on their way to Krabi. After 3 hours we were dropped in Krabi bus station. The usual array of taxi men approached offering to bring us to our next destination. We agreed with one of them to take us on to Ao Nang for 50 baht each. From here we grabbed a long boat for 80 baht each to Hat Ton Soi. A beach than can be only accessed by boat unless you are into abseiling down a cliff face.

The journey there was spectacular. Other long boats were racing in different all directions, filled with backpackers and the sort. Large outcrops of rock stood tall, undercut by the sea, dominated the surrounding landscape. We dropped an older couple off at another paradise resort beach along the way. We came around the headland to see two golden beaches set amongst large dominant cliffs and lush green foliage. As we neared Hat Ton Soi you could see the water was out very far from the shore, leaving a rather ugly sight of muck and rock strewn across the bay. The long boat brought us as near as it could. We then trudged with bags through the sludge to the shore. Not quite the Carlsberg of landings. The two Germans we travelled with went off in search of accommodation. Mysaelf and Jojo resigned to sitting back and having a beer. What else do you expect us to do when we arrive in paradise. After an hour or so we headed to find and internet connection, to check where Peter and Shane were staying. Shane had left a message to tell us he had moved on and to meet up with Peter and we'd see him a few days, all going well. We headed in search of the Mountain View resort.

Before long we stood in front of a rather upmarket looking resort of brick built rooms. We checked with reception for availability and to find which room Peter was in. We decided to treat ourselves for a couple of nights. 700 baht per night for an ensuite room with fan. Bizarrely the electricity only ran from 6pm to 7am each day. We awoke Peter from his mid-day nap. It was good to see him again after so long. As we moved our bags in, we caught up on each others activities for the past few months. Jojo was delighted with the bathroom. Not too dissimilar to myself. Easily pleased with simple pleasure. Jojo is incredibly partial to a shower. Whether cold or hot. If I rate places on the cleanliness of their public toilets, Jojo does it on the quality of their shower. We agreed to head to dinner after cleaning up and getting changed.

Hat Ton Sai is truly a little bit of paradise. The beach front is lined with a wide selection of chill-out bars. Each with its own unique offering of the ultimate chillax zone. Hammocks, Thai cushions and cosy chairs arranged overlooking the paradise bay. As you move further back along the pedestrian only walkways, you come across an array of cool hip bars and multicultural restaurants. Designed from bamboo and different woods the surroundings are reminiscent of movies like The Beach. Peter's choices sat among these and came highly recommended, after devouring numerous meals there. A collection of kittens collected at our feet as we ordered our food. After ten minutes of being an for the mosquitoes, I headed back to our room to make up an Australian learnt solution. During one evening we met Leigh and Fi from Melbourne that told us a mixture of body cream/lotion and Dethol kept the critters at bay. We had purchased the ingredients in New Zealand although had never got around to using them. With an empty washed beer bottle, I made up the hospital smelling solution and began to cover my feet and arms.

The food as Peter suggested was just right and we all ate a healthy meal that would keep our tummies happy for some hours. We headed down to one of the many bars along the beach front. Actually the same one we had our first beer on. We had arrived one day too late for the full moon party. Not that we missed much from Peters description. The bar was banging out electronic music to Jojo's delight. The rest of the night was made up of some beers, chat and Jojo spinning fire poi. I realised sitting there, we were living a lot of people dreams. Sometimes as you move around the world, you tend to forget just how lucky you really are. Its human nature for many to take what we have for granted. After a few hours, with Peter feeling a little worse for wear after his numerous nights of buckets we headed back in the direction of our rooms, only to find a buzz of activity in a nearby bar. A large group of climbers come to Hat Ton Sai for its excellent cliff faces. They all appeared to be having a party at this bar.

The night took another direction as we watched this collection of muscle bound ladies and gents performing tricks and games infront of us. It was a good vibe and everyone was in high spirits. Three activities where at play. The stretch out and place the bottle game, the walk or do a dance on a wire and the hold a partner by one leg and arm as they placed a bottle out. Each activity looked a thousand times easier than if you tried. Trust me. We tried. After the majority of the experts had had their fun, myself and Jojo tried to walk or even stand on the wire. The first thing that happens when you put your foot down on the wire is your foot to knee shakes like crazy. Jojo was determined and pulled in the aid of an acrobatics teacher. This same guy had shown his walk the wire talents, with rolls and sitting in lotus position for a bit of fun. After an hour he was able to begin to walk the wire. Also during this time, he ran off to do some fire poi at a nearby bar. He was like a kid in a playground. It was just what he had being looking for. Like three good Irishmen. Jojo gets an adopted title. We were of course, the last to leave. Some buckets and many beers into the morning. It only took five minutes and I had lost Jojo. Five minutes later we were back together. Five minutes after that we were collapsed on our beds.

Phuket - our first Thai island

We got to Changhai Airport with loads of time to spare for our flight to Phuket. The EW line brings you directly there. We checked in our bags and waited for our plane. AirAsia offer super cheap flights around all of SE Asia. We also learnt from a guy in the hostel that Tiger are another one to check out. They even offer flights from Singapore to India from as little as €100 return. Its good, when planning, to think of Singapore as the gateway to Asia. With only a twenty minute delay we were up and away on route to Thailand. The journey was fortunately without event. No matter, how often I fly I still feel better with my feet on the ground. I may not come across as nervous as Jojo when flying, although I always notice how quickly my own fears tries to sneak in. The usual silence fills the air as the plane begins to descend. As soon as those wheels touch down safely and the brakes engage, the energy changes immediately with all the passengers. For one, people start talking again. 

Phuket airport looks quite simple and basic compared to some of the airports I had being in previously. A large crowd is standing in lines for Immigration when we enter. An hour later, we finally pass through, with a new 30 day visa stamped in our passports. After collecting our bags we headed out. From my experience of India and Nepal, I'm initially skeptical at ports of entry. You are immediately approached by to   people trying to offer taxis into the city. We decide to wait for the local bus, to save some money. A handful of people board the bus with us forty minutes later. It feel great to be back in Asia. Driving through the outskirts of Phuket and watching the world go by. There is something beyond magical about this part of the world. A movie is playing on a TV for the whole journey. Everyone, including Jojo is afixed. Its a movie I haven't seen yet called Wanted. Not wanting see too much of it, I stare out the window, as the tropical landscape flys by.      

We get dropped into the centre of the city and are told the direction to walk to get to our guesthouse. There's a certain Portuguese feel to the delapatated city streets. Electric cabling litters the skyline like an entangled mass of spagehetti hanging from post to post. We clamber down the road with our bags. Beads of sweat roll down our face in the intense humidty. Its not long before we see the plastic Backpacker Guesthouse sign hanging ahead of us. We enter a hallway to see an iron gateway. Through this sits a smart looking recpetion desk and foyer. After being welcomed in, ouir reservation is checked and we are show to our room. The hostel is of an excellent standard. 300 baht a night. Tasteful modern decor. The room we were shown was a ten bed dorm with A/C. You are given a locker with the room. A large clean shared bathroom with western toilets sits opposite. After showering and changing with headed down to the common room. They have free WIFI and 5 computers with free internet. The lounge is large and cosy. Large modern couches line the wall and Thai cushion and bean bags make plentiful seating for the room. A plasma screen tv sits on the wall and a broad collection of new and old movies is available for rent for free from reception. Out the back there is also a small clean kitchen and comfortable garden. A real find when you get to Phuket town. Well worth the stay. 

Myself and Jojo headed out for dinner. Within 5 mins we found a local outdoor food court on a corner. There was a great selection of foods available. We ordered our first meal and drinks in Thailand. The food cost 85 baht, which just under €2. Hard to believe it until you see it. Both a prawn and beef dish with portions of rice. It was a delicious tasty meal that went down a treat after our long day of travelling with only some salty snacks to curb our appetites. We chatted away and headed back to the backpackers after. We sat down in the enormous bean bags and watched some movies. We ended up heading to bed around 1am. The room was chilled to perfection with the powerful a/c blowing away. I was asleep within 5 mins. 

I woke a few times during the night and finally decided to get up at 6am. Jojo looked like he was freezing in his bed, so I covered him my sheet and some towels to warm him up. I also left the door ajar while I went to shower. I gave him a cuddle and told him I'd see him downstairs in a couple of hours. I grabbed my Asus and headed down to the cosy common room to catch up on some work and blogging. The hostel was bereft of anyone. I made myself a coffee and got to work. 

Jojo appeared at around 10am. We booked a moped for the day and headed off to have breakfast somewhere in the town. We drove around Phuket town until we found a another place the locals ate on a corner. Just before getting here we stopped in a more western style cafe, although the prices where to steep for our tight budget. It is said in all the books to eat where the locals eat. So, that's what we did. The only two westerners there , we munched on some pork scratchings to start and then a spicy rice dish of some sort. Absolutely delicious again and once again just over 100 baht for the two of us. 

The rest of the day we spent going from beach to beach along the west coast. Phuket island is fairly small overall. We didn't really know where we were going, although we found all the places we planned to. We began in Karon beach. An overall touristy, over run beach with deck chairs and umbrellas as far as the eye could see. The beach and water were very pretty. The views were a bit disappointing. We headed on up to Patong. Worse by a long shot. A bit of the Coste Del Sol in Asia. The main road lined with burger joints, bars and tour operators. 

We finished up in Kamala. On route we got a puncture. Thankfully, we had only passed a mechanic a couple of hundred yards before it happened. The family sat outside in a covered garage, with the TV on in the background. They told us to wait while they rang someone to come. After some initial discussion we agreed to replace the tyre with a second-hand one for 100 baht. Three generations carried on their days activities as the tyre was being replaced. Every now and again a look from them with a smile. We headed off to Kamala. All of the beaches you will find on the west coast of Thailand were hit by the Tsunami in 2004, so most have new buildings and structures alongside them. Kamala had signs for Evacuation points everywhere. As my memory serves me, I think I remember seeing a video when the giant wave hit this particular beach. I prefered Kamala to the other beaches. We jumped in and had swim in the area marked off. After we came  out we had a beer and relaxed on some loungers, as the heat of the day finally passed. It was a pleasant finale to the day. Phuket is not quite what I had being expecting from Thailand, so far. Nevertheless, it was very pleasant travelling around the island on the scooter. We headed off home with rush hour traffic just beginning to build up. Just after leaving Patong we got another puncture. We stopped and had a snack at a local food stall, while the tube was replaced. 

When we got back to the hostel we spent some time doing some research online about our next few days. Our plan had being to head to meet Peter and Shane in Krabi the next day. We hadn't booked the ferry and we were not sure if we were going to head to the Phi Phi islands first. We both thought it'd be cool to go to a full moon party if we had the option. We headed into discover some more of Phuket town. There is whole section of town we didn't even know existed. It has a collection of modern stores and restaurants. We ended up coming back and eating in another local place for dinner. We decided to go for a western option this time. We agreed to stay another night before heading off. After we got back we lay down on Jojo's bed and watched the movie Bolt. Another animated movie classic, about a superhero dog, was extremely entertaining. 

I got up early and began doing some work for Lucca Leadership. Jojo joint me in the living room and began watching the 3rd saga to Lord of the Rings. We met the owner of the scooter and he agreed to give us another day for free in exchange for the money we had spent on the scooter. It was nearly two o'clock by the time I finished up. Jojo had patiently waited and was now hungry, so our first stop was to get some food. We checked out a Pizzeria around the corner. It was a bit on the expensive side. We decided to continue searching, until we found something a bit cheaper. The remainder of the afternoon we explored the east and south of Phuket island. 

We found a fantastic buddhist temple that was preparing for its nights activities. A collection of stalls where lined up in the dusty car park selling sweets and savory foods and toys. Harmonic music filled the sweet warm air. The temple was a myriad of gold, reds, blue, greens and yellows. The whole scene was beyond beautiful. Jojo and myself parked the scooter and went inside the temple. Local people arrived to the altar with incense sticks. It was a wonderfully peaceful experience to watch and be part of. We were acknowledged by everyone with a smile and gentle bow of their head. We stayed for another little bit, taking photos and watching more and more people arriving. Jojo told of how the ambiance reminded him of similar religious get togethers in Brazil. 

We arrived back to the Phuket town well after dark. We had dinner of pizza for Jojo and steak for me. As it was to be expected, the steak was a disaster. The deep fried ice cream with chocolate sauce was delicious. We strolled around town a little more before heading home. We caught another movie in the common room and finalised some of our plans for when we were to leave the next day.