As discussed on the previous night Pi Pi is not the location we wanted to stay for long. Well, I suppose it depends on what you are looking for. If you find places like San Antonio in Ibiza or Temple Bar in Dublin on a Saturday night to be your thing, then it is your type of place. So, it was agreed we move on straight away. After heading off for some breakfast we all met and headed to the ferry. As we waited we were touted into staying at a guest house in our next location of Ko Lanta. For 600 baht a night. Not quite what I had being hoping to pay, although at least it was all organised, including transport, for when we arrived. We climbed aboard the ferry and spent the next three enjoyable hours racing through the waters of the Andamen seas.
A far cry from Pi Pi the port at Ko Lanta looked more like a small fishing boat mooring than a ferry port. Thankfully and fortunately our driver was standing, holding a sign for our resort, Natures Beach. He seemed to be well known by the other drivers as they smiled and gestured him as he led us to the awaiting taxi bus. Not sure whether this was a good sign or a bad sign we followed in anticipation of some big surprise. The journey took no more than fifteen minutes. We were shown a brick bungalow and two bamboo beach huts. Not quite on the beach. More adjacent and in the middle of a field. We all checked in and headed down to checkout the beach. The restaurant of our resort, had a beautiful aspect overlooking the beach. Myself, Jojo and Shane ordered some drinks from the bar. As you head further south in Thailand you will begin to notice a rise in the number of Muslims. This was very evident here with all the girls working here wearing shawls over their heads. Ko Lanta is much more laid back less touristy than we had being before. The section of beach we were at only had a small collection of 5 to ten resorts clumped together. Everyone jumped in to try out the water. Afterwards I sat down with my laptop. Jojo headed off with Nathan and played some volleyball with the locals. An hour or so later we all headed off to clean up and get ready for dinner.
The small collection of places to eat we checked out where similar in price and menu selection. We ended up suggestion a family run business to eat to the group. So with that we all met headed to dinner. The restaurant was airy and tastefully decorated with numerous handmade shell chandeliers, bamboo furniture and plants. The menu told the story of how the surrounding building and all its contents had being totally together and made by the family. The place had a really pleasant feel and the food was second to none. I even finished off my meal and was pleasantly surprised, by trying a pot of deliciious filter coffee. The gang left with smiles on their face and headed back to Peter and Shanes brick bungalow with a/c. We all lay down and watched Yes Man on Peter's PC. It fantastic bringing the computers with you when you just want to jhave a quite night and relax with a movie. Highly recommend it.
Showing posts with label ferry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ferry. Show all posts
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Connected to the essence of just being
The next day was separated into food, fun and relaxation. We had a delicious breakfast. Headed off to the nearby Rali beach afterwards. Bought a new pair of flip-flops after breaking my own pair on route. Had a swim in the glorious aqua jade water. Both of us got minor jellyfish stings. With Jojo's wonderful advice, I stopped myself from itching it and we headed back to our beach. We found an oasis of relaxation hidden off our main track. We grabbed our books and my laptop. Notified Peter of or plans and headed back to spend a couple hours doing nothing. It was bliss beyond bliss. Swinging in our hammocks, we all nodded off to sleep at some intermittent point. As a lay there I knew that this was one of the main things I had being looking for, during my whole journey. A point in time where I was totally at one with myself and fully connected to the essence of just being. After darkness enveloped us we headed back to change for dinner. We tried somewhere different and were sadly disappointed. We decided an early night was in order with us leaving the next day. After exchanging some movies we headed off to bed.
We all headed to breakfast together. The average price seems to be around 120 baht. This entails a drink, porridge, toast and fresh fruit or something of the sort. Not bad for lest than €3. We headed back, collected our bags and checked out. We grabbed a long boat to Ao Nang in anticipation of catching a boat directly to Pi Pi. It wasn't to be the case. After being escorted to the nearby ferry port by a fairly certain taxi driver. Confirming with 3 separate people that the only ferries where in the morning, much to the dismay of the awaiting taxi dude. Being dropped back to the boys on the promenade. Arguing with the taxi dude who was now trying to charge double the fare he originally agreed. We jumped into one of the local open taxis to the town of Krabi. Running down the Krabi pier to the awaiting ferry. Over two hours later we disembark with a packed harbour of touts offering accommodation. We sit and have some iced coffees while we work out where Shane and his friends are booked in. Myself and Jojo agree to stay in the Tropical Garden resort next door to Shanes. After paying, we are escorted, with our bags taken in a cart, through the winding narrow laneways and streets of the allustrious and over touristy Pi Pi. We check in and find a very pleasant resort with wooden bungalows and a pool side bar. We head into the town to check it out. Meet with Shane. We then all head to the pool for a swim. Apart from Peter who takes his daily afternoon nap. I catch up on Shanes antics and then myself and Jojo relax for the next hour sipping beers in the delicious pool. We wash and change clothes. We all meet at the pool side bar. We are introduced to three new people, Triggy, Lou and Nathan. Good friends of Shane. We all head to dinner. Afterwards we go in search of a nice bar. We find a small party happening at one bar with fire poi. We spend a short time there before stopping in one bar on our way home. One drink for the road. An early night for all. Myself and Jojo have a delightful chat before falling to sleep.
We all headed to breakfast together. The average price seems to be around 120 baht. This entails a drink, porridge, toast and fresh fruit or something of the sort. Not bad for lest than €3. We headed back, collected our bags and checked out. We grabbed a long boat to Ao Nang in anticipation of catching a boat directly to Pi Pi. It wasn't to be the case. After being escorted to the nearby ferry port by a fairly certain taxi driver. Confirming with 3 separate people that the only ferries where in the morning, much to the dismay of the awaiting taxi dude. Being dropped back to the boys on the promenade. Arguing with the taxi dude who was now trying to charge double the fare he originally agreed. We jumped into one of the local open taxis to the town of Krabi. Running down the Krabi pier to the awaiting ferry. Over two hours later we disembark with a packed harbour of touts offering accommodation. We sit and have some iced coffees while we work out where Shane and his friends are booked in. Myself and Jojo agree to stay in the Tropical Garden resort next door to Shanes. After paying, we are escorted, with our bags taken in a cart, through the winding narrow laneways and streets of the allustrious and over touristy Pi Pi. We check in and find a very pleasant resort with wooden bungalows and a pool side bar. We head into the town to check it out. Meet with Shane. We then all head to the pool for a swim. Apart from Peter who takes his daily afternoon nap. I catch up on Shanes antics and then myself and Jojo relax for the next hour sipping beers in the delicious pool. We wash and change clothes. We all meet at the pool side bar. We are introduced to three new people, Triggy, Lou and Nathan. Good friends of Shane. We all head to dinner. Afterwards we go in search of a nice bar. We find a small party happening at one bar with fire poi. We spend a short time there before stopping in one bar on our way home. One drink for the road. An early night for all. Myself and Jojo have a delightful chat before falling to sleep.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
a little bit of paradise
Up and checked out by 9am. We used the scooter to find the nearby local bus station. Our hostel was charging 500 baht to Krabi, while the Lonely Planet mentioned it was closer to 100. The bus terminal is easy to find and near the centre of the city. We booked two tickets for 110 baht each to leave at 11.30am. I used the scooter to bring our bags over in two runs. A lot easier than carrying them over in the 30 degrees temperature. The whole back and forward took half and hour. We grabbed some food at one of the local restaurants in the time we had to spare.
The minibus left on time and had a/c. One of the most bizarre things you might notice if you visit Thailand is the quantity of new vehicles on the road. Its quite hard to believe how many there are. 90% of all vehicles are no more than 3 years old. Its quite strange to see this every where you turn. It doesn't fit in with the roads, homes and general state of the place. We got to meet some German and American backpackers who were also on their way to Krabi. After 3 hours we were dropped in Krabi bus station. The usual array of taxi men approached offering to bring us to our next destination. We agreed with one of them to take us on to Ao Nang for 50 baht each. From here we grabbed a long boat for 80 baht each to Hat Ton Soi. A beach than can be only accessed by boat unless you are into abseiling down a cliff face.
The journey there was spectacular. Other long boats were racing in different all directions, filled with backpackers and the sort. Large outcrops of rock stood tall, undercut by the sea, dominated the surrounding landscape. We dropped an older couple off at another paradise resort beach along the way. We came around the headland to see two golden beaches set amongst large dominant cliffs and lush green foliage. As we neared Hat Ton Soi you could see the water was out very far from the shore, leaving a rather ugly sight of muck and rock strewn across the bay. The long boat brought us as near as it could. We then trudged with bags through the sludge to the shore. Not quite the Carlsberg of landings. The two Germans we travelled with went off in search of accommodation. Mysaelf and Jojo resigned to sitting back and having a beer. What else do you expect us to do when we arrive in paradise. After an hour or so we headed to find and internet connection, to check where Peter and Shane were staying. Shane had left a message to tell us he had moved on and to meet up with Peter and we'd see him a few days, all going well. We headed in search of the Mountain View resort.
Before long we stood in front of a rather upmarket looking resort of brick built rooms. We checked with reception for availability and to find which room Peter was in. We decided to treat ourselves for a couple of nights. 700 baht per night for an ensuite room with fan. Bizarrely the electricity only ran from 6pm to 7am each day. We awoke Peter from his mid-day nap. It was good to see him again after so long. As we moved our bags in, we caught up on each others activities for the past few months. Jojo was delighted with the bathroom. Not too dissimilar to myself. Easily pleased with simple pleasure. Jojo is incredibly partial to a shower. Whether cold or hot. If I rate places on the cleanliness of their public toilets, Jojo does it on the quality of their shower. We agreed to head to dinner after cleaning up and getting changed.
Hat Ton Sai is truly a little bit of paradise. The beach front is lined with a wide selection of chill-out bars. Each with its own unique offering of the ultimate chillax zone. Hammocks, Thai cushions and cosy chairs arranged overlooking the paradise bay. As you move further back along the pedestrian only walkways, you come across an array of cool hip bars and multicultural restaurants. Designed from bamboo and different woods the surroundings are reminiscent of movies like The Beach. Peter's choices sat among these and came highly recommended, after devouring numerous meals there. A collection of kittens collected at our feet as we ordered our food. After ten minutes of being an for the mosquitoes, I headed back to our room to make up an Australian learnt solution. During one evening we met Leigh and Fi from Melbourne that told us a mixture of body cream/lotion and Dethol kept the critters at bay. We had purchased the ingredients in New Zealand although had never got around to using them. With an empty washed beer bottle, I made up the hospital smelling solution and began to cover my feet and arms.
The food as Peter suggested was just right and we all ate a healthy meal that would keep our tummies happy for some hours. We headed down to one of the many bars along the beach front. Actually the same one we had our first beer on. We had arrived one day too late for the full moon party. Not that we missed much from Peters description. The bar was banging out electronic music to Jojo's delight. The rest of the night was made up of some beers, chat and Jojo spinning fire poi. I realised sitting there, we were living a lot of people dreams. Sometimes as you move around the world, you tend to forget just how lucky you really are. Its human nature for many to take what we have for granted. After a few hours, with Peter feeling a little worse for wear after his numerous nights of buckets we headed back in the direction of our rooms, only to find a buzz of activity in a nearby bar. A large group of climbers come to Hat Ton Sai for its excellent cliff faces. They all appeared to be having a party at this bar.
The night took another direction as we watched this collection of muscle bound ladies and gents performing tricks and games infront of us. It was a good vibe and everyone was in high spirits. Three activities where at play. The stretch out and place the bottle game, the walk or do a dance on a wire and the hold a partner by one leg and arm as they placed a bottle out. Each activity looked a thousand times easier than if you tried. Trust me. We tried. After the majority of the experts had had their fun, myself and Jojo tried to walk or even stand on the wire. The first thing that happens when you put your foot down on the wire is your foot to knee shakes like crazy. Jojo was determined and pulled in the aid of an acrobatics teacher. This same guy had shown his walk the wire talents, with rolls and sitting in lotus position for a bit of fun. After an hour he was able to begin to walk the wire. Also during this time, he ran off to do some fire poi at a nearby bar. He was like a kid in a playground. It was just what he had being looking for. Like three good Irishmen. Jojo gets an adopted title. We were of course, the last to leave. Some buckets and many beers into the morning. It only took five minutes and I had lost Jojo. Five minutes later we were back together. Five minutes after that we were collapsed on our beds.
The minibus left on time and had a/c. One of the most bizarre things you might notice if you visit Thailand is the quantity of new vehicles on the road. Its quite hard to believe how many there are. 90% of all vehicles are no more than 3 years old. Its quite strange to see this every where you turn. It doesn't fit in with the roads, homes and general state of the place. We got to meet some German and American backpackers who were also on their way to Krabi. After 3 hours we were dropped in Krabi bus station. The usual array of taxi men approached offering to bring us to our next destination. We agreed with one of them to take us on to Ao Nang for 50 baht each. From here we grabbed a long boat for 80 baht each to Hat Ton Soi. A beach than can be only accessed by boat unless you are into abseiling down a cliff face.
The journey there was spectacular. Other long boats were racing in different all directions, filled with backpackers and the sort. Large outcrops of rock stood tall, undercut by the sea, dominated the surrounding landscape. We dropped an older couple off at another paradise resort beach along the way. We came around the headland to see two golden beaches set amongst large dominant cliffs and lush green foliage. As we neared Hat Ton Soi you could see the water was out very far from the shore, leaving a rather ugly sight of muck and rock strewn across the bay. The long boat brought us as near as it could. We then trudged with bags through the sludge to the shore. Not quite the Carlsberg of landings. The two Germans we travelled with went off in search of accommodation. Mysaelf and Jojo resigned to sitting back and having a beer. What else do you expect us to do when we arrive in paradise. After an hour or so we headed to find and internet connection, to check where Peter and Shane were staying. Shane had left a message to tell us he had moved on and to meet up with Peter and we'd see him a few days, all going well. We headed in search of the Mountain View resort.
Before long we stood in front of a rather upmarket looking resort of brick built rooms. We checked with reception for availability and to find which room Peter was in. We decided to treat ourselves for a couple of nights. 700 baht per night for an ensuite room with fan. Bizarrely the electricity only ran from 6pm to 7am each day. We awoke Peter from his mid-day nap. It was good to see him again after so long. As we moved our bags in, we caught up on each others activities for the past few months. Jojo was delighted with the bathroom. Not too dissimilar to myself. Easily pleased with simple pleasure. Jojo is incredibly partial to a shower. Whether cold or hot. If I rate places on the cleanliness of their public toilets, Jojo does it on the quality of their shower. We agreed to head to dinner after cleaning up and getting changed.
Hat Ton Sai is truly a little bit of paradise. The beach front is lined with a wide selection of chill-out bars. Each with its own unique offering of the ultimate chillax zone. Hammocks, Thai cushions and cosy chairs arranged overlooking the paradise bay. As you move further back along the pedestrian only walkways, you come across an array of cool hip bars and multicultural restaurants. Designed from bamboo and different woods the surroundings are reminiscent of movies like The Beach. Peter's choices sat among these and came highly recommended, after devouring numerous meals there. A collection of kittens collected at our feet as we ordered our food. After ten minutes of being an for the mosquitoes, I headed back to our room to make up an Australian learnt solution. During one evening we met Leigh and Fi from Melbourne that told us a mixture of body cream/lotion and Dethol kept the critters at bay. We had purchased the ingredients in New Zealand although had never got around to using them. With an empty washed beer bottle, I made up the hospital smelling solution and began to cover my feet and arms.
The food as Peter suggested was just right and we all ate a healthy meal that would keep our tummies happy for some hours. We headed down to one of the many bars along the beach front. Actually the same one we had our first beer on. We had arrived one day too late for the full moon party. Not that we missed much from Peters description. The bar was banging out electronic music to Jojo's delight. The rest of the night was made up of some beers, chat and Jojo spinning fire poi. I realised sitting there, we were living a lot of people dreams. Sometimes as you move around the world, you tend to forget just how lucky you really are. Its human nature for many to take what we have for granted. After a few hours, with Peter feeling a little worse for wear after his numerous nights of buckets we headed back in the direction of our rooms, only to find a buzz of activity in a nearby bar. A large group of climbers come to Hat Ton Sai for its excellent cliff faces. They all appeared to be having a party at this bar.
The night took another direction as we watched this collection of muscle bound ladies and gents performing tricks and games infront of us. It was a good vibe and everyone was in high spirits. Three activities where at play. The stretch out and place the bottle game, the walk or do a dance on a wire and the hold a partner by one leg and arm as they placed a bottle out. Each activity looked a thousand times easier than if you tried. Trust me. We tried. After the majority of the experts had had their fun, myself and Jojo tried to walk or even stand on the wire. The first thing that happens when you put your foot down on the wire is your foot to knee shakes like crazy. Jojo was determined and pulled in the aid of an acrobatics teacher. This same guy had shown his walk the wire talents, with rolls and sitting in lotus position for a bit of fun. After an hour he was able to begin to walk the wire. Also during this time, he ran off to do some fire poi at a nearby bar. He was like a kid in a playground. It was just what he had being looking for. Like three good Irishmen. Jojo gets an adopted title. We were of course, the last to leave. Some buckets and many beers into the morning. It only took five minutes and I had lost Jojo. Five minutes later we were back together. Five minutes after that we were collapsed on our beds.
Monday, July 21, 2008
Day 35 - Sunday - Fort Cochin
Wrote the blog and some postcards at breakfast today. Rang my partner on Skype video. Skype is such a fantastic facility when you travel. Its hard enough being away from people you love for a long period of time. Chatting to them on the phone really helps. Chatting and seeing them is in a league of its own. He was in super fab form and acting like a crazy loon. I love seeing him and miss him terribly. Skype video makes all the difference. If you are ever going away for a long period of time. Make sure to they all have webcams before you go. The boys found me still online at 2pm. I rang Ian on Skype and told him we were coming over to collect him.
We headed to the farside. Minus Peter, who was in too much pain to go anywhere. When we arrived we had planned to check out the new Batman movie – the Dark Knight in a screen in Ernakulam. Ian was so much better and delighted to on the move. We walked down to Shanmugham Rd and stopped in Coffee Beans for some lunch. His appetite was back also. A good selection of western food was munched down. When we arrived at the cinema there was a mass of people being herded down a passage way. We looked around trying to work out where to head. We went inside and were suddenly ushered through a side door to the top of the queue. As masses of young men pushed trying to get tickets, everything was paused while the westerners were sold their tickets first. We stood their laughing at each other. After 5 minutes we realised Batman wasn't on and we had just paid for some Hindi movie. We decided to head into the coffee shop. Once again security got a side door opened and we were allowed through. Crowds of young people were standing around and desperate to get tickets so we just sold the tickets on. At a small profit of 20rps. The whole thing had happened so quickly and was so insane. The Sridaar Screen is one of the only cinemas that shows movies in English in Kochin, although these are shown generally in the morning. We discussed coming to see Hancock the next day to experience the Hindi madness.
We checked out the Rainbow Bridge on the far side of the road of the cinema. The promenade was lined mainly with men. A few women were here and there. Generally men sitting in groups, smiling, walking hand in hand, staring at the whities, laughing and staring into each other eyes. It really is like walking into the middle of a gay haven. Eoghan and myself walked down the promenade towards the ferry, while Aidan went back with Ian to pick up his bags. I walked behind Eoghan by around 10 feet and just laughed. I'd say if he had being naked he would have got no more looks. Every single man and group of men turned , looked, smiled or made some comment to their friend as he walked along. It really does begin to feel like having movie star status after awhile. When we got to the port it was beginning to get dark. Eoghan was off looking for a game of Karam, after seen one in one of the old buildings earlier. I headed up to the observation tower of the new ferry building. As I was coming back down I knew we'd all meet below. As I turned into to buy my ticket I met Eoghan and then 100 yards later I met Aidan and Ian queuing to buy theirs.
After we got to the Elite we freshened up and watched some TV before going out. Ian headed to the internet cafe and Aidan went of to a classical concert in the same venue we had being the night before. We all went to meet Aidan for dinner. As we were waiting we met cashman who advised us against eating where he had. We went back to our local for the third night in a row. It was a lot of fun. With stories of breaking jaws and ribs being the main entertainment for the night. Sadly at Aidan's expense. We did find out later that his later fact was a truth. To do correct or succesful CPR you need to break the patients ribs. He doesn't know we know. So don't tell, because he will probably never read this until he gets home. Nevertheless it gave us all a great night of laughter and we all had a lot of fun. We woke the Elite manager and headed to bed. I believe I feel asleep pretty much in the middle of a conversation with Ian. Sorry about that.
We headed to the farside. Minus Peter, who was in too much pain to go anywhere. When we arrived we had planned to check out the new Batman movie – the Dark Knight in a screen in Ernakulam. Ian was so much better and delighted to on the move. We walked down to Shanmugham Rd and stopped in Coffee Beans for some lunch. His appetite was back also. A good selection of western food was munched down. When we arrived at the cinema there was a mass of people being herded down a passage way. We looked around trying to work out where to head. We went inside and were suddenly ushered through a side door to the top of the queue. As masses of young men pushed trying to get tickets, everything was paused while the westerners were sold their tickets first. We stood their laughing at each other. After 5 minutes we realised Batman wasn't on and we had just paid for some Hindi movie. We decided to head into the coffee shop. Once again security got a side door opened and we were allowed through. Crowds of young people were standing around and desperate to get tickets so we just sold the tickets on. At a small profit of 20rps. The whole thing had happened so quickly and was so insane. The Sridaar Screen is one of the only cinemas that shows movies in English in Kochin, although these are shown generally in the morning. We discussed coming to see Hancock the next day to experience the Hindi madness.
We checked out the Rainbow Bridge on the far side of the road of the cinema. The promenade was lined mainly with men. A few women were here and there. Generally men sitting in groups, smiling, walking hand in hand, staring at the whities, laughing and staring into each other eyes. It really is like walking into the middle of a gay haven. Eoghan and myself walked down the promenade towards the ferry, while Aidan went back with Ian to pick up his bags. I walked behind Eoghan by around 10 feet and just laughed. I'd say if he had being naked he would have got no more looks. Every single man and group of men turned , looked, smiled or made some comment to their friend as he walked along. It really does begin to feel like having movie star status after awhile. When we got to the port it was beginning to get dark. Eoghan was off looking for a game of Karam, after seen one in one of the old buildings earlier. I headed up to the observation tower of the new ferry building. As I was coming back down I knew we'd all meet below. As I turned into to buy my ticket I met Eoghan and then 100 yards later I met Aidan and Ian queuing to buy theirs.
After we got to the Elite we freshened up and watched some TV before going out. Ian headed to the internet cafe and Aidan went of to a classical concert in the same venue we had being the night before. We all went to meet Aidan for dinner. As we were waiting we met cashman who advised us against eating where he had. We went back to our local for the third night in a row. It was a lot of fun. With stories of breaking jaws and ribs being the main entertainment for the night. Sadly at Aidan's expense. We did find out later that his later fact was a truth. To do correct or succesful CPR you need to break the patients ribs. He doesn't know we know. So don't tell, because he will probably never read this until he gets home. Nevertheless it gave us all a great night of laughter and we all had a lot of fun. We woke the Elite manager and headed to bed. I believe I feel asleep pretty much in the middle of a conversation with Ian. Sorry about that.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Day 34 - Saturday - Fort Cochin
While having breakfast I met three very interesting people. The first was a middle-aged British gentleman by the name of Paul. Currently living in Barcelona and was travelling with his partner around India for three months. His message was be careful of eggs and recommended “The Shape of the Beast” by Arundhati Roy. Funy enough because I had only seen her first book the day before. Directly after Paul left, I chatting to a girl beside me by the name of Lily. She was a student and had decided to come to India with her mum. Now as much as my mum is a rebel, India for anyone is fairly tough. Fair due. She said that her mum was loving it and they were getting on so well. She recommended a place up north to visit and an ashram that we could stay in for a week, to do meditation and yoga. Supposedly very near to where the Beatles had stayed for some months. Finally as I was leaving I met Mike. He was from Mauritius and was running an IT business in India. He informed me you could employ a top IT professional for as little as 26,000rps per month. He also ran his own nightclub in Delhi and was currently about to start running a night in Ernakulam.
Headed over to Ian in Ernakulam after leaving the Elite. I really enjoy the trip over. The walk to the ferry, the boat journey over and the 15 min walk to the hotel. He was feeling a million times better than he had yesterday although he was certain he was going to stay put for another day at least. I stayed and watched the motorcycle diaries with him a hour and then headed back. It was near enough to three by the time I got back to Fort Cochin. I thought I'd check back to the hotel first. Was not expecting the lads to still be there. The three of them were propped up in their beds watching something on the laptop. I believe Dexter. I tutted at them and laughed. They joined me shortly on the roof top restaurant for lunch.
We head to the chemist, myself and Aidan found the day before. Peter's teeth are really at him and he needs some strong pain killers. We decide to do a bit of adventuring and go for a walk. Its quite a difference than the tourist side. Obviously where the lower cast live and off the tourist track. Its an interesting collection of brick r' brack shops, electric repairs, jewellery stores and carpenters. This is what I love about India. An uncut diamond. Beautiful and real. Majority of people smiles back warm and friendly Hellos. We visit a smart little cake and coffee shop on our return. Aidan heads off not wanting to miss the beginning of the Kathkali, a local Keralian dance/performance. After some great coffee and sweets we myself and Eoghan join him. Peter heads back to the hotel to nurse his toothache.
When myself and Eoghan enter the performance has already begun. The story is of beauty and lust, a sheep in wolfs clothing and the strength of hero. What makes their local dance famous is non-verbal communication through movements of the face and hands. The part we walked in on during the beginning, tells the full NVC vocabulary used throughout the performance. It is a colourful story with wild dance and live music. Great night performance and well worth the 150rps. We headed to our local restaurant again, for special tea and food. Within 5 minutes of getting back to my room, I'm asleep.
Headed over to Ian in Ernakulam after leaving the Elite. I really enjoy the trip over. The walk to the ferry, the boat journey over and the 15 min walk to the hotel. He was feeling a million times better than he had yesterday although he was certain he was going to stay put for another day at least. I stayed and watched the motorcycle diaries with him a hour and then headed back. It was near enough to three by the time I got back to Fort Cochin. I thought I'd check back to the hotel first. Was not expecting the lads to still be there. The three of them were propped up in their beds watching something on the laptop. I believe Dexter. I tutted at them and laughed. They joined me shortly on the roof top restaurant for lunch.
We head to the chemist, myself and Aidan found the day before. Peter's teeth are really at him and he needs some strong pain killers. We decide to do a bit of adventuring and go for a walk. Its quite a difference than the tourist side. Obviously where the lower cast live and off the tourist track. Its an interesting collection of brick r' brack shops, electric repairs, jewellery stores and carpenters. This is what I love about India. An uncut diamond. Beautiful and real. Majority of people smiles back warm and friendly Hellos. We visit a smart little cake and coffee shop on our return. Aidan heads off not wanting to miss the beginning of the Kathkali, a local Keralian dance/performance. After some great coffee and sweets we myself and Eoghan join him. Peter heads back to the hotel to nurse his toothache.
When myself and Eoghan enter the performance has already begun. The story is of beauty and lust, a sheep in wolfs clothing and the strength of hero. What makes their local dance famous is non-verbal communication through movements of the face and hands. The part we walked in on during the beginning, tells the full NVC vocabulary used throughout the performance. It is a colourful story with wild dance and live music. Great night performance and well worth the 150rps. We headed to our local restaurant again, for special tea and food. Within 5 minutes of getting back to my room, I'm asleep.
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Day 33 - Friday - Cochin
Yes, as you can imagine I was awake first. I silently slipped out of the room and headed out into a sunny new city. I really love that. You arrive in a city under the fall of night and the next morning its all a mystery. Atypically I find a sense of a place first. Get a map, go for a walk to get the tone and energy of a place. Hold judgment and see what comes up on the awareness level with people and the surroundings. I probably presume a little about the Indian people at this stage. Expecting standard smiles and looks and greetings. Although I also expect to find the unexpected. I started by searching for a tourist office. I knew, from the Rough Guide, that Cochin was split into two main areas, Fort Cochin and Ernakulam. We had stayed on the later, the business district and I felt drawn to the other. My first stop was the railway station. Its always a safe bet to find a tourist office there. It was closed. Next after getting some direction I found another closed tourist office. Seemed kind of strange for a Friday. Okay, it looked like a little bit of discovering was in order. I walked a large block. On route I noticed a modern looking hotel. Went inside and asked if they had a map. They did. Yippee, every travelling man's best friend. Thank God for Mr. Cartographer. Now with map in hand, I continued on my journey, secure of my location. I was here.
The city was quite different than the ones we had being in previously. Probably the most western of the lot. Pathways and drains. Traffic lights and traffic. Advertisements and department stores. I waved and said hello to a few townies. Good to see it wasn't totally westernised. I got back to the Metropolitan an hour later, feeling chuffed with my little adventure. I checked on Ian and he was feeling terrible. He had really bad bout of the Delhi belly. Find it hard to hold anything in. The Immodium were not strong enough, so I said I find him some Norfloxacin and Lopermide, as recommended in a health pamphlet we had. Eoghan and Peter were in no shape to go anywhere, so Aidan and I were heading off to find a new location to move into that evening. We jumped into a rickshaw and headed to the main ferry port that would bring us to Fort Cochin. Off season fare should be around 20 to 30rps for 1 to 2km, all depending on how much your wiling to haggle.
The front of the ferry port, is a potholed bus stand, lined with a few food stalls. We headed in the direction of other passengers, into an some run down, old looking single storey structures that looked like buildings from the movie Empire of the Sun. As we continued through we were greeted by a grand new modern ferry port in stark white with a terracotta tiled roof. The front of the building was surrounded with piles of wet redish earth. Looking like a project that had gone astray somewhere along the planning lines. The interior was bare and basic. We cued and purchased two tickets at 2.5rps per person. The boats were long single storey diesel engine vessells, with a capacity of around 100 people. The seats were simple wooden benches with cracked and worn paint. We managed get two seats for ourselves as the boat packed quickly.
I consciously noticed something more here than anywhere else in India. In most places you go in India you will notice men holding hands or having their arms around each other. It cames across as genuine sing of affection. From the small bit of information I had gathered and the bit of knowledge I had heard from before, men are closer in a lot of Asian culture than we are used to seeing. Its quite strange being gay and growing up in a culture where this show of closeness between men would and is still ridiculed by many. From what I learn ed that this affection was no more than good friendship. What was different since I arrived in Kerala and now right in front of me was how loving the touches and the looks between the men is. As someone joked about me and an ex-partner many years ago, we appeared as “more than just good friends”. I can understand men being close, like women are close in our own society although this was more than that. Perhaps I was reading too much into it, although it interested me enormously this male social interaction, in such a strongly homophobic and religious society. I decide I would do some research into as soon as possible.
The boat journey across to Fort Cochin was quite spectacular. Fishing boats and oil tankers passed by on either side of the windowless vessel. We passed Willingdon Island on our left. Supposedly a dredged island created by the British in the 1920s, now a major port on the west coast of India. Within 25 minutes we arrived at our destination. The boat gently pulled alongside the jetty and before it had come to a stop people were jumpy off and making their way out of the port. As we walked out on to the main road I felt we had arrived in a good place. Over th next three hours we ate, walked around the nib of the peninsula, checked numerous guest houses, saw the Chinese fishing nets and found our place to stay. Prices vary considerably across Fort Cochin from a double room as low as 300rps to 6000rps for the boutique hotels. Bizarrely the price doesn't always reflect what you are getting. Kerala was not really humid enough to require a/c so we were only needing a nice clean room. The Rough Guide was quite accurate on its accommodation listing and the last place we checked out was the best. The Elite Hotel on Princess Street was impeccably clean with double rooms with TV's and fans in every room, for only 350rps. The moment we saw it we knew we were on to winner. There was roof top restaurant, cafe downstairs and internet cafe connected. Chuffed with ourselves we headed back to Ernakulam to collect the bags and make the move.
It was near enough to nine by the time we returned to the Metropolitan Hotel. The lads had not moved from the room and Ian was delighted to see we had picked up the medicine. He had had a terrible day with a large percentage of it spent in the bathroom. He decided he was going to stick it out in the hotel where he had room service and was at least comfortable. The rest of us got our bags, packed and were at reception paying the bill within ten minutes. We made it to the main ferry port with seconds to spare before the last boat for the evening pulled off. We all jumped on board, bags and all. We got a rickshaw on the far side to take some of us and the bags to the hotel. Myself and Eoghan walked back in the darkness. The island appeared to be having a power out. As we arrived at the Elite , Aidan and Peter were just coming downstairs. With all of us starving we found a nice outdoor restaurant at the end of the street. Special Tea was available :) We enjoyed a fine selection of Asian and Western cuisine. The place was busy and had a really nice atmosphere. Fort Cochin felt just right. Before sleeping I was delighted to catch a showing of Superman II on the TV in the room.
The city was quite different than the ones we had being in previously. Probably the most western of the lot. Pathways and drains. Traffic lights and traffic. Advertisements and department stores. I waved and said hello to a few townies. Good to see it wasn't totally westernised. I got back to the Metropolitan an hour later, feeling chuffed with my little adventure. I checked on Ian and he was feeling terrible. He had really bad bout of the Delhi belly. Find it hard to hold anything in. The Immodium were not strong enough, so I said I find him some Norfloxacin and Lopermide, as recommended in a health pamphlet we had. Eoghan and Peter were in no shape to go anywhere, so Aidan and I were heading off to find a new location to move into that evening. We jumped into a rickshaw and headed to the main ferry port that would bring us to Fort Cochin. Off season fare should be around 20 to 30rps for 1 to 2km, all depending on how much your wiling to haggle.
The front of the ferry port, is a potholed bus stand, lined with a few food stalls. We headed in the direction of other passengers, into an some run down, old looking single storey structures that looked like buildings from the movie Empire of the Sun. As we continued through we were greeted by a grand new modern ferry port in stark white with a terracotta tiled roof. The front of the building was surrounded with piles of wet redish earth. Looking like a project that had gone astray somewhere along the planning lines. The interior was bare and basic. We cued and purchased two tickets at 2.5rps per person. The boats were long single storey diesel engine vessells, with a capacity of around 100 people. The seats were simple wooden benches with cracked and worn paint. We managed get two seats for ourselves as the boat packed quickly.
I consciously noticed something more here than anywhere else in India. In most places you go in India you will notice men holding hands or having their arms around each other. It cames across as genuine sing of affection. From the small bit of information I had gathered and the bit of knowledge I had heard from before, men are closer in a lot of Asian culture than we are used to seeing. Its quite strange being gay and growing up in a culture where this show of closeness between men would and is still ridiculed by many. From what I learn ed that this affection was no more than good friendship. What was different since I arrived in Kerala and now right in front of me was how loving the touches and the looks between the men is. As someone joked about me and an ex-partner many years ago, we appeared as “more than just good friends”. I can understand men being close, like women are close in our own society although this was more than that. Perhaps I was reading too much into it, although it interested me enormously this male social interaction, in such a strongly homophobic and religious society. I decide I would do some research into as soon as possible.
The boat journey across to Fort Cochin was quite spectacular. Fishing boats and oil tankers passed by on either side of the windowless vessel. We passed Willingdon Island on our left. Supposedly a dredged island created by the British in the 1920s, now a major port on the west coast of India. Within 25 minutes we arrived at our destination. The boat gently pulled alongside the jetty and before it had come to a stop people were jumpy off and making their way out of the port. As we walked out on to the main road I felt we had arrived in a good place. Over th next three hours we ate, walked around the nib of the peninsula, checked numerous guest houses, saw the Chinese fishing nets and found our place to stay. Prices vary considerably across Fort Cochin from a double room as low as 300rps to 6000rps for the boutique hotels. Bizarrely the price doesn't always reflect what you are getting. Kerala was not really humid enough to require a/c so we were only needing a nice clean room. The Rough Guide was quite accurate on its accommodation listing and the last place we checked out was the best. The Elite Hotel on Princess Street was impeccably clean with double rooms with TV's and fans in every room, for only 350rps. The moment we saw it we knew we were on to winner. There was roof top restaurant, cafe downstairs and internet cafe connected. Chuffed with ourselves we headed back to Ernakulam to collect the bags and make the move.
It was near enough to nine by the time we returned to the Metropolitan Hotel. The lads had not moved from the room and Ian was delighted to see we had picked up the medicine. He had had a terrible day with a large percentage of it spent in the bathroom. He decided he was going to stick it out in the hotel where he had room service and was at least comfortable. The rest of us got our bags, packed and were at reception paying the bill within ten minutes. We made it to the main ferry port with seconds to spare before the last boat for the evening pulled off. We all jumped on board, bags and all. We got a rickshaw on the far side to take some of us and the bags to the hotel. Myself and Eoghan walked back in the darkness. The island appeared to be having a power out. As we arrived at the Elite , Aidan and Peter were just coming downstairs. With all of us starving we found a nice outdoor restaurant at the end of the street. Special Tea was available :) We enjoyed a fine selection of Asian and Western cuisine. The place was busy and had a really nice atmosphere. Fort Cochin felt just right. Before sleeping I was delighted to catch a showing of Superman II on the TV in the room.
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