The morning began with the usual sun bathing and breakfast. We met Will and Glen when a couple of us went to the internet cafe. After some deliberation we got them on board our idea of renting scooters and heading north to checkout some of the beaches. We had learned from numerous sources that Paloleum was pretty much the only resort left open in Goa. Goa's main tourist season runs from October/November to May, after that the monsoon rains are expected. The whole of Goa pretty much closes up, Paloleum being the last and pretty much the only resort along the coast that has any form of activity. When we planned to go to Goa we were not in the know of any of this. We had originally planned to make our way up the coast and stay in different resorts along the way. So, with this unexpected change of events we wanted to see some of the places up north. We felt that scooters might be the best way to see it.
Directly outside our resort is the main Paloleum taxi rank. 100 meters from there is the internet café. Daily as you walk between the two you are offered taxis and scooters and the lot so this was our first port of call. The opening offer was 300 per scooter. Eoghan was looking for a motorbike and this was more expensive. They wouldn't budge from 200rps per bike so we walked up the street. We had being informed 'Don't Pay More Than 150”. So we didn''t. 200 meters later we got our price.
As we were walking along Aidan noticed an Indian gentleman he had met the night before. He introduced him to me and said we'd probably have stuff to talk about. The mans name was Suresh Aithal. He is a tutor in the National Institute of Technology of Karnataka in Mangalore. His company SouthCan is developing educational software for schools and colleges in India. I explained to him the work I had being doing with the Digital Hub.After chatting for 5 minutes and agreeing to contact him when we got to Mangalore I excused myself and caught up with the boys.
Aidan had never being on a mophed before, so we gave him a crash course before we collected the bikes. I got Mr Raj's bike who was working away building a house. The locals rent their own bikes for the day. 30 mins later 9 of us were scootering out of Hampi.
The first thing I noticed as we made our way to the petrol station was the look of the countryside. It felt really surreal. Like so many movies I have seen. India is truly a beautiful country. Fields lined by palm trees, woodens huts, cattle pulling ploughs, paddy fields, ladies walking with large bundles of sticks on their heads. Everywhere you turn locals waving, calling out and smiling. Husband and wife sitting side saddle and child in between riding a motorbikes. Riding along with no helmet, and the warm heat flowing over your body. These are the moments that will stay with me forever. The roads are remarkably good. They even felt safe. With your hand at the ready to beep and let people know your passing or turning a blind corner. We all fueled up and began heading north.
Aidan took to the bike remarkably well. He was flying along with the convoy on the windy, hilly Goan roads. Its a great feeling pottering along on the Indian roads. We had no real idea of where we were going although it was good to be out and about. Eoghan raced off ahead and when he got too far he turned and came back to the back of the group. Indian drivers are totally insane but bizarrily safe. Don't ask. All you need to know is it is loads of fun. After an hour of traveling and getting lost a few times we found ourselves in a little backwater called Betul. Its a small village with pretty much nothing accept a few shop stalls and houses everywhere. We stopped to ask someone where the beach was. I met an English couple that had had a nasty scrape on their bikes. She looked in shock, with blood pouring down her leg. Even though she was smiling and chatting away. After wishing her well and we headed off to find some food. Five minutes away we drove into the entrance of a very colourful resort stuck down the end of a dirt lane. As the scooters pulled into the driveway three people popped outside to see what was going on. The brick built place was painted in a crazy array of colours. As we walked inside the empty foyer, some remarked it remind them of the movie The Shining. I saw there point straight away. The dining room was of a seventies style with large green patterened checkered squares lining one wall. The white table clothes were heavily stained. The staff immediately turned on the two large antiquated air-con units. They roared into action and within minutes the warm room began to cool. The menu was varied and reasonably priced. I stuck to a vegetarian option. After seen he place totally empty I prefered not to risk et that might have being sitting around for a few days. As my mum always said, 'better to be safe than sorry'. I agree. I also noticed one really positive thing when I went to the toilet, it was spotless. I always feel this is a good sign for somewhere that serves food.
Can you imagine, a pretty much closed restaurant, having to cook 7 separate dishes on the spur of the moment. More than likely with one staff. With that in mind the 20 min wait was more than acceptable. Everyone was fairly happy with their dishes and the staff were friendly and polite. After eating, myself, Eoghan and Peter went for a smoke and walked round the grounds. The gardens were really well kept and the guest houses seemed of a fairly high standard from what we could see. The rear of the premises backed on to the river and a large swimming pool lay to the side. The murky green colour was less than tempting to dive into. We joint the others a moment later for some chocolate biscuits. As we got together to leave all the staff seemed to come out to watch us leave. Smiles abundant they stood staring at us. It never fails to amaze me how much you get stared at in India.
After getting some direction from the locals we were on the return coast road to Paloleum. Before we knew it we came over the brow of a hill and the most amazing view spread out ahead of us. Palm covered hillsides running down to the coast, as far as the eye could see. it was trés beautiful. A moment later after winding down the hilly road, we were puttering through the little village of Agonda. We met some Indian bikers that pointed us toward the beach. Agonda was empty as we pulled up in the bikes. Eoghan raced in search for a way to ride on to the beach and he found it. As we strolled onto the paradise beach, Eoghan, like something out of a movie, raced off down the length of the beach. The waves crashing in against the shore with the sun setting in the background. The beach was lined with palm trees. Six of us stood there, just absorbing. It was serene. Apart from the motorbike tracks and the roar of the bike as Eoghan came racing towards us. Hilarious.
Half an hour after meeting some locals and checking out some more of the beach we were on the road again. We initially got a little lost by taking a dirt track that the scooters couldn't quite manage. The darkness closes in quick in India. By the time we turned around and back on route we were surrounded by the silk of the night. 20 minutes later, after battling through a face load of mosquitto's, we pulled into Paloleum Beach resort delighted with our adventure. We all headed to our rooms to freshen before dinner. We asked Will and Glen to join us in the Smugglers Inn.
The rest of the night was a normal collection of food, drink and pool. A comprise was made by the lads, on my behalf, over my dislike of the nightly C & D. So we found a new bar with pool table on the main street. Interestingly enough there's a hefty enough charge of 50rps per game of pool where we have being so far and the same rule applied here. We had even offered a empty bar one night, for six people to drink there, if we got the pool for free or a discount. They declined with out batting an eyelid. Strange. The night was good fun although I retired early, glad to go home and contact my babe before going asleep.
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