Day 128 - a monk with a megaphone

No chance of sleeping the next morning. I had Germans chatting away loudly, two Americans talking about nightlife in Chengdu and another guy packing his bags loudly. I told the American guy, could he be any louder and I then tried to get back to sleep. Failing miserably I got up and showered the sleep away. Showers are like my ON switch. With a new life in me I headed to reception and bumped in the boys I had only met two days before in Xian, at the train station. They told me they were planing to head to Leshan to organise their Visa extensions and also see the Giant Buddha. I was invited to join them. I headed off for breakfast to ponder the idea. Eating made me feel ten times better. I decided I'd join the guys and went down to tell them. Recommendation for anyone that is looking for an extension of your Chinese Visa, if you happen to only get a 30 day visa and need to extend your stay. Keep away from the major cities like Beijing to apply for your extension. You will be wrapped in so much red tape, you wont know what happened to you. This particular town, 2 hours outside of Chengdu was supposedly a good example of how easy it can be. You head over in the morning, drop in your application and by the afternoon your Visa is granted. As I walked into reception to find the boys, who do I bump into but the British couple I'd had so much fun with on the Terracotta tour, Tom and Sarah. They had just arrived in, off the train. We agreed to hook up after I got back. After a bit of faffing around the boys finally decided to head to Leshan.

We walked around the corner to the bus station. Worked out we were at the wrong station, so we jumped into a cab to the bus station on the far side of the city. As we're entering the bus compound some guy called out Leshan and offered us a taxi for 260rmb. We walked by and thanked him. After standing in the wrong queue we worked out that the fair was 45rmb each and the next bus wasn't leaving for 40 mins. We thought about it for a minute and realised the private car was probably a better option. We were brought to around to a fairly new and smart looking SUV. Darkened windows and fake leather armchair style seating. After haggling it down to 200rmb for the four of us, we were pretty chuffed. They sold another three seats, although even at that, there was plenty of room. Within ten minutes we were making away through city traffic and out on to the motorway. He cruised at nice steady pace of 120kph. It was nice to travel through the countryside of China. It was the first time since landing that I got to really see what China looked like outside of the cities. The trains move way too fast to get much of an idea. We had heard Leshan was a small town and as expected we were greeted by another sprawling metropolis. The outskirts of the big town were the first time I witnessed a more rugged side to Chinese life. It looked similar to some of the suburbs we had seen in Kathmandu. A more developing side to the country. It was good to witness because I was beginning to wonder where the poor parts of China where, with all its super motorways and skyscraper cities everywhere you turn. If you do a fast tour of China you really need to look closely to see the full picture or else you might come away thinking it is all super modern and everyone is doing well for themselves. China has got an enormous amount of poverty, it is just hidden very well from the tourist routes. I can imagine, this is only the tip of the iceberg, I am talking about.

We were dropped right to the entrance and even walked right up to the ticket booth for the Giant Buddha. All for 200rmb. Pretty sweet. The Swedish lads had worked out a handy system for saving a few bucks. One thing you will find out if visiting China, the cost of entry into monuments will be a fairly heavy whack of your total budget. That is, unless you have a student card. This can cut as much as 60% of the entry cost into places. They didn't have student cards, but their photo IDs worked the same. Entry to see the Giant Buddha and caves was 130rmb per person or 60 with the ID. Its a nice park to visit if you are in Chengdu. Its made up of a collection of statues and caves carved out of the solid rock. Perhaps take a picnic there and spend the day walking around investigating at a nice leisurely pace. Its quite big and beautiful. There are some rather suspicious looking carving that I might question there historical validity. Nevetheless, they are truly impressive pieces of art. I think after seeing so much historical monuments, bulidings, dig sites and the sort you are always looking for something bigger and better to impress you. So, as impressive as this stuff was I was like, yeah, have the t-shirt. Although, as we continued our walk I was taken back by one of the most impactful entrances, to a temple, I have ever seen. You are greeted with the most magnificent Buddhist entrance gates. Inside stands a large circular arena with a giant colourful lotus flower monument of burning oil lamps in the centre. On the far side, a giant steep stone staircase of a couple of hundred steps ascends up onto a high plateau. On either side, enormous Buddhist statues are carved into the rock face guarding the entrance. As you climb the precipice you notice the bannisters are entwined with thousands of rusting locks. I was told by Yan that they are placed there by families and friends to represent their eternal bond of love for each other. Its quite a spectacular sight as you climb this stairway to heaven. As you reach the top, you are presented with a vast stone temple with a giant buddha, colourful flags, burning incense and oil lamps alight.

You then make you way through a series of caves filled with more statues. It takes another 15 minutes of paths through woodland and up and down hills and finally a steep staircase that comes down on the far side of the mountain, along side a giant river. You can see a stunning coastline of hills and cliff as far as the eye can see. You make your way through a series of tunnels and finally you walk out onto the biggest stone foot you have ever seen. At first you don't recognise it for what it is. It's only until you see the picnic size table toenail that you realise what you are looking. You walk around the corner and suddenly you see the biggest buddha in the world. Sitting proud at 70 metres high, carved out of the side of the mountain. Its quite a simple carving although super big. The head looks like it was made separately and then stuck on top. Not the easiest thing to do, so lets pretend it was all made at the same time. An alternative way of viewing the buddha is by boat along the river. Although, standing at the toes of this mammoth statue is quite a humbling experience. It is bloody enormous. We hung around and took some pics and then began to climb the narrow staircase on the far side we had entered. After getting halfway up the cliff we were called back by a monk with a megaphone. Well I think he was calling us back, although I have no idea. He was shouting at us in Chinese. The crowd of tourists looked up at us and we looked and each other wondering what all the commotion was about. He stopped shouting after a few minutes and we continued up the stairs. After a couple more turns, we realised what he was trying to tell us, the pathway was so narrow it was only meant for people going one way. The opposite way we were going. We navigated it with little difficulty, with a ni hao here and there and a few smiles, no one seemed that bothered. We spent another 40 minutes or so investigating, ornate gardens, rustic temples and a concrete pagoda. We headed out of the park and on to the main road. Yan, Eric and Alex were staying the night in Leshan, while I need to get back to Chengdu. I was approached the moment I walked out the gate by someone showing me a photo of a coach and saying Chengdu. I asked, how much. 40Rmb. Sweet. I wished the lads farewell and a good journey. Three more passing ships in the sea. I was led across the road by a smiling lady who insisted I sit in her shop. I kept trying to tell her I was okay although she kept grabbing my arm and motioning me to wait. I had great fun trying to communicate more information about the bus. What time was it going to pick me up? What time did it get to Chengdu? Within minutes I had her and two of her friends in hysterics. They were practically rolling around the street as I used my fantastic NVC skills to talk to them. They seemed like a lot of fun. The ladies where in their late 50's although they were like kids. They kept laughing at everything I did. One of them then offered me some strange red and white food on a pair of chopsticks. I smelt and was like, no thanks. This had them laughing and joking again. Quite amusing I must be. While sitting there I was approached by numerous sales people trying offer there cheap and tacky looking products. Nearing six I was signalled into a minibus and then after we did a U-turn we picked up two Malaysian guys with two chinese girls on the far side of the road. I gave my three Chinese ladies a big wave out the window and they were smiling and waving back. A few minutes later we were dropped at a coach waiting on the side of the road. I got the usual array of stares as I boarded the bus and made my way down to the back. The two male passengers I sat beside didn 't look too impressed to see me and kept turning to have a good gander.

It was a lovely journey home. One thing I loved so much about India was travelling by bus and train. It such a fantastic way to see the real country. This was what made this journey for me on the way back to Chengdu. Sitting high up and looking out at the landscape as it zipped by. It was dark by the time we got back to the city and I was feeling kind of sleepy. We pulled into some car park on the outskirts of Chengdu. I had no idea where I was. The Malaysian guys were as lost as me. Taxi drivers stood waiting, offering fairs of 80rmb. We decided to walk to the main street to find a bus. A large bus depot stood two minutes around the corner. Thankfully, the youth hostel flyer, had the bus numbers written on it. I found the number 28 and showed the driver the address. He looked at smiled and told me to pay the 2rmb. The bus was brand new with TV screens showing the back door. Another smart device that you will notice all around China is money card points. You buy a card or rechargeable device that you fill it with money. This can be done at most corner shops , supermarkets or banks. You can then use these on a wide array of venues throughout the cities. Buses, trains, shops, fast food joints like McDonalds and even entry into tourists sights will accept these. 90% of the people, swiped their money cards, as they got on the bus. Chengdu is another grid style setup. Spread out over a fairly wide area with three rings roads encompassing the city. It took over 30 minutes before we got back to my road.

I picked up my flight ticket from reception and booked an airport drop out for the next morning. I thought perhaps a wake call might be a good idea, so I booked that also. Tom and Sarah were upstairs in the common area having some beers. After logging online and Skyping Jojo, i joined them. It was a really nice evening and I loved spending the time chatting about the world and our view points on it. We got on amazingly well. It was morning before I knew it and I was fairly tipsy. We had nearly solved some of the worlds problems over the evenings chats. Its funny how sometimes you just click with some people. As if you've known them all your life. We agreed it might be time to head to bed. I was up in four hours. Before I let them go, I added Tom's to Facebook. If Google is the search God, Facebook is the connection God. Pretty much everyone I have met travelling, from every part of the world has used Facebook. Well done, to the Facebook crew. We walked to our rooms and said our farwells. As I lay down I realised, this is what travelling is about. Meeting amazing people like Tom, Sarah, Eric, Yan and Alex. People that you meet and everyone shares a bit of themselves with each other. Fantastic. Nite.

Day 35 - Sunday - Fort Cochin

Wrote the blog and some postcards at breakfast today. Rang my partner on Skype video. Skype is such a fantastic facility when you travel. Its hard enough being away from people you love for a long period of time. Chatting to them on the phone really helps. Chatting and seeing them is in a league of its own. He was in super fab form and acting like a crazy loon. I love seeing him and miss him terribly. Skype video makes all the difference. If you are ever going away for a long period of time. Make sure to they all have webcams before you go. The boys found me still online at 2pm. I rang Ian on Skype and told him we were coming over to collect him.

We headed to the farside. Minus Peter, who was in too much pain to go anywhere. When we arrived we had planned to check out the new Batman movie – the Dark Knight in a screen in Ernakulam. Ian was so much better and delighted to on the move. We walked down to Shanmugham Rd and stopped in Coffee Beans for some lunch. His appetite was back also. A good selection of western food was munched down. When we arrived at the cinema there was a mass of people being herded down a passage way. We looked around trying to work out where to head. We went inside and were suddenly ushered through a side door to the top of the queue. As masses of young men pushed trying to get tickets, everything was paused while the westerners were sold their tickets first. We stood their laughing at each other. After 5 minutes we realised Batman wasn't on and we had just paid for some Hindi movie. We decided to head into the coffee shop. Once again security got a side door opened and we were allowed through. Crowds of young people were standing around and desperate to get tickets so we just sold the tickets on. At a small profit of 20rps. The whole thing had happened so quickly and was so insane. The Sridaar Screen is one of the only cinemas that shows movies in English in Kochin, although these are shown generally in the morning. We discussed coming to see Hancock the next day to experience the Hindi madness.

We checked out the Rainbow Bridge on the far side of the road of the cinema. The promenade was lined mainly with men. A few women were here and there. Generally men sitting in groups, smiling, walking hand in hand, staring at the whities, laughing and staring into each other eyes. It really is like walking into the middle of a gay haven. Eoghan and myself walked down the promenade towards the ferry, while Aidan went back with Ian to pick up his bags. I walked behind Eoghan by around 10 feet and just laughed. I'd say if he had being naked he would have got no more looks. Every single man and group of men turned , looked, smiled or made some comment to their friend as he walked along. It really does begin to feel like having movie star status after awhile. When we got to the port it was beginning to get dark. Eoghan was off looking for a game of Karam, after seen one in one of the old buildings earlier. I headed up to the observation tower of the new ferry building. As I was coming back down I knew we'd all meet below. As I turned into to buy my ticket I met Eoghan and then 100 yards later I met Aidan and Ian queuing to buy theirs.

After we got to the Elite we freshened up and watched some TV before going out. Ian headed to the internet cafe and Aidan went of to a classical concert in the same venue we had being the night before. We all went to meet Aidan for dinner. As we were waiting we met cashman who advised us against eating where he had. We went back to our local for the third night in a row. It was a lot of fun. With stories of breaking jaws and ribs being the main entertainment for the night. Sadly at Aidan's expense. We did find out later that his later fact was a truth. To do correct or succesful CPR you need to break the patients ribs. He doesn't know we know. So don't tell, because he will probably never read this until he gets home. Nevertheless it gave us all a great night of laughter and we all had a lot of fun. We woke the Elite manager and headed to bed. I believe I feel asleep pretty much in the middle of a conversation with Ian. Sorry about that.

Getting into the swing of things - Day 7

9.30am, up first Saturday morning. I bring a book, Yes to the breakfast table and sit with my toast and coffee taking in the stunning views. More white tourists arrive while I'm there. Ian's the first to come down for breakfast again. After our terribly strenuous day yesterday we plan to catch some rays and read our books. Laura and Kirsty join us shortly. Sometimes you end up sitting for three hours at the Paloleum resort diner, just for breakfast. So many more people arrive at the weekend so your constantly saying hello and exchanging travel stories. By the time we arrive back to the huts to sun bathe, Aidan and Peter are up chatting to a Canadian girl called Shannon. She is traveling with her boyfriend. Myself and Ian start catching some rays in the scorching Indian heat. Literally 5 mins and your face and body is beaded in sweat. Strangely this year the monsoon rains have kept at bay. TBTG. An offer of a swim an hour later is immediately accepted by me. Even against the warnings, four of us head out for a paddle. The water is glorious. A tad salty if you get it up your nose, although like silk gliding off you body.

After spending an hour arguing with Skype in the internet café I head off to explore the little village of Paloleum. The street we are staying on is topped by a T-junction. Numerous shops and businesses are obviously closed for the season. Empty lots and shells of building are scattered everywhere. The only places that are open are small shops like newsagents, travel agents, restaurants, accommodation and a barber shop. I head left to investigate a little further. Within a minute walking, its like traveling back in time. It reminds of my visit to Dublinia Viking tour. There is a collection of run down and modern brick house and guest houses and then amongst it lies wooden huts planted on red dirt grounds. Women dressed in the typcial Indian dress are preparing tea, brushing their pathways with wicker/twig swatches. Kids are running around playing. Beach dogs strolling across the road. The road way weaves to reveal more brick house. TVs sound from inside. Satelitte dishes sit on roofs. Different style bikes, scooters and motorbikes wizz by with their generic beep-beep. A woman sits on a path intersection, selling tiny fish from a wicker baskets. I stroll along, blown away totally by what I am experiencing. A truly magical experience. The simplicity. The community. The energy is... As I walk along I receive 100% reflection from my smiling and saying hello to the locals. It is something you have to experience to understand. It is very stilling and powerful. The roads continues to weave on. Dusks closes in fairly quickly. Further down mother and baby boars patter around one of the brick house front gardens. The roads comes to an end at a No Trespassing sign into a protected area. As I return along my 1km route, more women stand in the road chatting to each other. Nods are exchanged. Bright-eyed children wave from door, with beaming white smiles. There is an incredible sense of peace here.

By 9pm we are seated, cross legged, in the only real Italian restaurant in Paloleum. Stated to host an Italian chef. We order a selection of fine sounding meals and new selection of beers. One thing you will notice if you come to India is they have their own version of Diageo/Ryanair called Kingfisher. Its the number one beer supplier, an airline and they even produce water. Cashing in on the tourist business. The evening was thoroughly enjoyable with both food and conversation going down a treat. The only thing that took from it was the other locals having their meal that got on my wick. Munching away on my blood without my permission. We all left rubbing our bellies and strolled on down to the local. As we got closer to the bar the heavens opened and everyone ran inside. Aidan got inspired and decided to go for a run in it. After some minor effort he convinced me and we walked out in to the downpour. Within half a minute we were wet to the skin and loving it. We strolled down the beach in the dark with the towering beach light casting long shadows ahead of us. It felt bloody great. Aidan turned to me, placed his hand on my shoulder and said, “This is what it's all about.” I have to say, he was right. We took off our sandels and walked along as the sea washed over our feet.

By the time we got back a small group had gathered outside to drink on the beach. After five mintues or so I started chatting to an Indian gentleman. Can't quite remember his name, you'll probably hear this more than once over the next year. Anyhow, as anyone that knows me well, the conversation ranged from education to politics to poverty to taxation and the such. It He's in the area developing a piece of land, to place 5 to 6 one bed rented cottages on it. He has a number of businesses across India and some land in Darjeeling, in the north. He offered me to come along and help set up the school if i wished. It was exactly the type of chat I had being looking forward to since I arrived. I learnt a lot about the country and also how a businessman sees his own country. After knocking back another beer and chatting some more, he headed off for the night. We also met a few other new travelers that night, Glen and Will from the UK. They are very sound and relaxed. It was 4am before I knew it. The Irish of course were the last to leave. On our way back up the beach, myself, Eoghan and Peter decided to go for a walk towards the peninsula. The boys had beers I was wisely knocking back a litre of water. At night the tide goes out enormously. As we got near the end we noticed some people walking along in the dark. We continued on to where the river is and we were able to cross with the water only going up to our ankles. In the distance you could see the darker silhouette of figures moving around near the waters edge. Upon closer inspection they were moving in some form of unison. Its strange sight to see at 4am in the morning. It suddenly dawned on us that they were fishermen. This became more apparent with the outline of boat shadows on the sand. We passed them by and left them to there mysterious work. As we approached the island we could see thee channel intersecting it was now only 20 feet, nevertheless the water looked fairly fast moving. Crossing it was not really a consideration even though fairly tempting. As we walked back we decided to investigate the early morning workers a little closer. Now as our eyes were more accustomed to the dark we could see two separate groups of men sorting a net of some sort. A man walked out from the dark forest on our left and headed across our path towards the others. It was an amazing sight to see and a great insight into the villagers simplicity. Once again there is something about India that reminds me of old Ireland. There is a strong sense of community and working with nature. We stroll pack chuffed with our early morning find. Sleep comes upon us easily that night.