Day 120 - Beyond Big Beijing

Woke up when I heard Ian moving around. Showered and met him down in the adjoining cafe for our free breakfast. Pretty good when you consider you are only paying 65rmb per night for a hostel in the centre of Beijing. Ended getting lost for a few hours doing research on places in China, posting in Facebook and the sort. Ian told me not to hang around for him if I was going to head off. He was right. I dropped the Asus back in and headed of to the Forbidden City. Got dropped at the back entrance to the city. It was bloody freezin. Paid entry and for an Automatic Audio guide and entered. The Forbidden City is really really really big. Vast. As soon as you walk in the large gate a giant wall spans out to the left and the right. Everything within the city is coloured in the same colours. This is were it all seem quite similar after a while when visiting it. This was not out to save money although was based on he four elements of fire, earth, air and water. All the walls in red for fire, the roofs are yellow for earth and then the eaves of the roofs are a mixture of blue and green, mainly. The architecture is repeated throughout with the standard Chinese Ming Dynasty style. There are grand hall ways, termed, quite rightly, as roadway on the audio guide. Only 60% of the city is open to the public. From what I could see, by peeping through gaps in doorways, the other 40% is being renovated. The 60% is more than enough for anyone to see. It takes roughly four hours to walk around the city and see everything. I started at the back, so the first area I entered was the gardens. I can imagine grand in their day although lacking a certain something now. Perhaps due to the hundreds of tourists sitting and walking around it. To the west and east of the centre palace, are the residence of the concubines and the emperors wives. These are not too far disimilar, therefore visiting one side might be enough. There are some temporary exhibitions in some of the side building, so these will be the only thing you miss out if you don't see both sides. These included things such as pottery, wedding paraphernalia and other antiques. The majority of these palaces are nearly identical in design. The audio does give some very interesting stories as you walk up to each palace. There are other internal exhibitions, such as the Timepiece one, that you need to pay additionally to visit. These are normally 10 – 20rmb. The timepiece one was especially worthwhile.

Over the four hours I zigzagged across the width of the whole city and tried to see every area possible. The most spectacular area is the centre. It is the area where the emperor himself spent the majority of his time. There is a path right down the centre of the whole city, that only he was alllowed to walk. The majority of this is made from marble. One stunning carved piece, in particular, that you will see, is over 200 ton in weight. The are numerous buildings that he used spanning back along the length of the city. These include his bed chambers, his throne, his ceremonial hall where he met people, his matrimonial chamber, etc. If you can fight your way through the masses you might get a snap of the interior of these enormous structures from the barred area at the front of each building. Large urns, statues and sculptures litter the surrounding areas. Each building is surrounded by enormous squares and other out buildings. Once again you will find a collection of shops and museums in here. During my four hour walk I took nearly 400 photos. I imagine a lot of them look very similar. So some recommendations. Wear good walking shoes. Make sure you've had a good nights sleep. Bring a packed lunch. If you go after October, bring layers to keep you warm while being able to take off when needed. Bring a bag. I imagine Mondays or Tuesdays might be a bit better.

So, all in all, it was a fantastic visit. I was totally wrecked afterwards, although I still got to see the changing of the guard or something of the sort as I was leaving at five. As I went to leave they were barricading the exit. I stood there amongst another 800 and growing crowd. I went up to the front to see if I could pull the whitey card, with one of the soldiers dressed in green. The guy didn't speak English, although I got him and the crowd smiling as I tried some NVCs with IN and OUT. Why? Puzzled looking faces stared at my charade. One Chinese guy obviously understanding called out something to him and the soldier responded sharply. After 5 more minutes they finally let the crowd out. The front of Tian'anmen was blocked also. There were police vehicles stopping traffic and the whole square seemed to be empty apart from soldiers. After a while I copped it must have something to do with European delegation being in Beijing for the weekend for some conference. Perhaps they were given a private viewing of the square. After half an hour they finally opened the underpass and for the 3rd time I entered Tia'anmen Square. I took some day pics and looking at the time realised if I went back now I'd get nothing else done. So, I decided the Olympic Village deserved a visit. Four metros later I jumped off at the super modern Olympic Centre station. Headed up the escalators and walked out on to a super highway size pathway. Off in the distance, looming into the skyline, stood the striking blue Water Cube, Aquatics Centre on the left and the bizarre glowing red Birds Nest, Stadium on the right. Its a good walk before you are beside them. The Birds Nest is quite an architectural sight with its cocoon mesh of concrete and glowing red colour. Entrance was closed to the public at this time in the evening. I walked the circumference of it until I was opposite the Water Cube and then headed in that direction. In the middle and infront of the main avenue stands a large olympic tower filled with diamond shaped glass vessels flashing sporadically against the dark night sky. The Water Cube is a fantastic site with its giant blue glowing bubbled textured exterior. People stood here and there being photographed infront of these two enormous pieces of modern art. I only stayed a short while walking around before heading back to the metro.

When I got back Ian was still sitting where I had left him in the cafe, online. The rest of the boys were either online or in the pub. I watched a movie, grabbed a take away fish and chips and recuperated in the hostels common room. Ian was in the mood for going out so after some general faffing about we finally left just after midnight. Eoghan faffed some more in the pub so he got left behind. Aidan was having some bowel movements, so he stayed in the pub with Peter. We had got some advice, so we headed to the Mix nightclub, not too far from the Workers Stadium. This seemed to be an area were a number of clubs are positioned. There is no real city centre in Beijing. There are areas around the vast city for different things. Shopping, pubs, clubs, etc in different locations around the city.
We arrived at Mix. Paid 50rmb entrance fee. It was quite a mediocre club with two seperate rooms. Problem was both of them were playing R n B and Hip Hop. Not Ian or I's favourite music. We stayed for one drink and headed to find Coco Banana, around the corner. When we arrived we knew it was more like what we had being looking for. Its free entry. You wak through a doorway of pink feather boas into a slick, shing, ultra modern nightclub. Two walls lined with large projections of moving images. Smartly dressed staff see you to a seat within a moment. We ordered a bottle of vodka for 500rmb. Mixers are included in the price and they are not sparing with the quantity they give you. For this money you have you own waiting staff that stand and dance beside your table. A large platter of fresh fruit is brought to your table with a slections of fresh watermelon, pineapple, orange and cherry tomatoes. Any time you glass gets close to empty or you take out a cigarette they are there to serve you before you can do it for yourself. At some times you might have two staff serving your table. The DJ was very good and knew how to mix. The lighting in the place was superb. The crowd who drink her have to be such a tiny percentage of the overall general chinese population. The night was fantastic and myself and Ian had a great banter and dance like loons on the dance floor. At the end of the night, when the music stopped being played all the staff gathered for some staff meeting, right in the middle of the club. With the tiny bit of English they spoke we couldn't work out what it was all about. We finally found a Frenchman that spoke pretty good Mandarin after only being there two months. He explained a number of things. Based on there performance the meeting tells them what night they are not working next week. The better staff you are the better nights you get to work. More tips, etc. He also informed us the staff only get 9rmb an hour. They work 8 hours a day and 4 - 6 days a week. Now, that is roughly €1 an hour. That is not what I was expecting to hear. The cost of life in Beijing is bloody expensive. How the hell do they survive? We finished up our jar and after much persistence to leave from our waiter we finally headed with the remainder of our bottle of Vodka and four cans. We headed back to Mix to see if there was anything still going on. We went in, walked around and left after five minutes. We got a taxi back to the hostel. We polished of a bit more of the vodka. I started falling asleep so we headed for our free breakfast, next door. At this stage I was fairly drunk and tired. The breakfast was exactly what I needed. We were in bed 30 minutes later at around 8.30am. We met Eoghan on his way to bed also.

Day 117 - The stomach of China

If Shanghai is the eye of China, then Beijing is the stomach. Woken at 5.30am. Sat bolt upright in the bed. Ian was sitting up in his, "those fucking builders". The noise of hammering and drilling right outside our door. Absolutely wrecked I lay down and feel back asleep. I woke up next to people moving their bags and moving out. Next thing that woke me was two people talking Chinese loudly and rummaging around. I climbed down presuming it must be late as staff were cleaning the room and changing sheets. I arrived in the canteen to find Ian sitting at his laptop. It was 7.45am. What the hell are they doing coming into the room at that time. The next seven hours I spent online catching up on contacting people I hadn't since I had left. Its weird you think when you are on holidays you have all the time in the world. Its not true. Its so hard to keep in contact people. After posting on 40 or so people's facebook I decided I had enough and needed to get out. First a little nap.

I awoke 2 or so hours later, feeling a tad better. Ian was still working away. I made some tired comment about, lets head out. He was not up for, so off I went. Followed the map and was at the B Exit of Line 2 of the metro in 5 mins. The subway is one of the oldest I had seen since arriving in China. Something from the eighties with big crazy brass lighting. I had no idea where the city centre was so I jumped of at Jianguomen station. Walked out and saw some sort of oldish tourist building. A national astronomy observatory of sorts. 10rmb entrance fee. Bit Meh overall. It is supposedly of enormous signifigance internationally. Wasn't really much to see apart from a big tower like structure hosting a variety of large cast iron observation and measurement tools. I imagine quite something in its day. Had no idea where I was so I justed started walking in a direction that I thought was the right way towards something. Everything in Beijing is super big. The roads are ridiculous going through the city. Four lanes, taxi/cycle lanes and big paths on each side of the road. The further I walked the more it seemed I was getting somewhere. Within a few minutes I was across the road from the Silk Market. It is a collection of shops selling clothes of numerous brands on numerous floors. There is everything from fake D&G to silk, jewellery, cameras and the lot. Great place for the ladies and theres definitely something for the boys.

Next stop I jumped of the metro at was Tian'anmen Square East. Wow, what a site. The best description is vast. It sits overlooking the entrance to the Forbidden City. Another enormous structure. I made way through the underpass and out onto the square. It is quite a sight. Surrounded by gigantic government buildings and motorway wide roads on three sides. soldier in full dress attire stand at attention at different posts throughout. I think back to my memory of the news stories from 1989, what it must have being like on those days. Chinese tourist stood here and there taking snaps. There is so much space it is hard to grasp. Two stunning monuments lit by flood lights stood proud. A new giant electronic board with blue and orange writing on it stuck out like a sore thumb, revolving in the midst of all this. Surrounded by colourful flowers and fountains spurting jets of water in the air. I walked around the square taking it all in and taking a few snaps myself. After crossing under the road, I visited the front of the Forbidden City. One thing I'll say about the Chinese is the really know how to do it. The pavements are as big as an Irish motorway. The cities I have visited so far are so well designed for tourism. It makes it all so bloody easy. Anyone can travel in China. Its a breeze and a pleasure. I can only imagine where it will be in 10 years.

I headed off walking to the east. I took a turn down some road running down the right hand side of the Forbidden City. Low old buildings lined the street. A collection of small local shops, eateries and not much else apart from a photography gallery I briefly visited. Some excellent shots. I kept walking and then headed east. Before I knew it I was back in a brightly lit area with electronic ad boards hanging from the buildings, Without realising I had come upon the infamous Donghuamen Night Market. A crazy long line of foods stall with a crowd walking around infront sprawled out infront of me. I walked down the line taking in the sights of crickets, snakes, lizards and other strange foods displayed on a stick. People stood around smiling as the stall operators called out to them to try their stalls foods. A Chinese woman tapped me and told me to watch my bag. After thanking here, she started up a conversation. Her English was near perfect. Stephanie I was later to find out was her English name. She stayed with me for the next half an hour, chatting about this and that. She was more knowledgeable about Ireland than some Irish people I know. At the beginning I enjoyed her company although after a while I kind of wanted to be walking by myself. Strange thing is I didn't say this to her and lied by walking to the metro station and saying I was going to get one. We swapped emails and phone numbers. I waved her goodbye and I was off. I hung around a few minutes and headed back up, hungry for something to eat. I went back to the food stalls and got a collection of dumplings, a candy fruit stick and a portion of spring rolls. It had being raining for the past half and hour and I was pretty much soaked as I had walked along unconcerned of getting wet. I made my way back around to the metro and headed home. After getting a little confused on which exit to take I was back in PLoft in ten minutes. If you have not travelled on metros before, always take note of the exit letters/numbers. It can make a BIG difference where you come out and whether you get lost or not. Or thats what I have found anyway.
When I got back I met the recently rested Ian, went online and caught up on the blog :)